History of Ice-Cream (Bastani)
in Iran
By: Ahmad Jalali
Farahani, June 2004
Iranians first got to know the ice cream when Iranian King Nasser uddin
Shah enjoyed French ice creams in Paris. The
monarch was willing to take ice cream to Iran
but he never did it. His successor Mozaffar
uddin Shah had institutionalized ice creams at
the palace. Up to the World War II, Iranians
were not familiar with ice creams. When Reza
Shah took power he let everyone enjoy ice
creams.
Akbar Mashdi
Akbar Mashdi was the first Iranian to vend ice
creams. He was known even in Los Angeles and
Paris. His real name was Akbar Mashahdi Malayeri.
He was born in a remote village in 1868. Akbar
had to leave the village for the city to find a
job. His brother accompanied him but he was
killed by highwaymen. Akbar experienced a
variety of jobs before getting engaged in ice
cream sales. He used to take sugar and tea to
northern cities and bring back firewood to
Tehran to make a living. He got acquainted with
Mohammad Rish at the age of 20. Mohammad Rish
maintained good ties with Mozaffar uddin Shah
courtiers. That is when Akbar Malayeri
recognizes ice creams.
 |
|
Eating ice-cream (bastani) around an
ice-cream vendor. Around 1900 CE |
Reza Shah Takes Over
Reza Khan comes to power and Mohammad Rish and
Akbar Malayeri seize on the moment to found the
first ice cream shop in Iran. They opened their
shop near the railway in 1318 lunar hijra. Two
years later, Mohammad Rish abandons the job but
Akbar Malayeri presses on with selling ice
creams. Mohammad Malayeri, the only heir to
Akbar Mashdi, says: "The Iranian ice creams
Akbar Mashdi served the Iranians was totally
different with foreign ones. Iranians preferred
other materials like creams, rose water and
saffron than stabilizers. They also used a
special plant whose form resembles fox." Asked
to comment on Akbar Mashdi's ice creams,
Mohammad says: "He got reputation because of his
honesty and sincerity. He always offered ice
creams of the best quality."
"I remember well that he worked a lot in the
wintertime. There was no refrigerator in the
country and Akbar had to procure ice in the
treacherous mountains near Tehran." At that
time, the people used natural fridge. They dug
the earth up to 60 meters deep and preserved ice
for summertime. "The courtiers, ambassadors and
commoners purchased ice creams from Akbar Mashdi,"
Mohammad says. "Once Fakhroddoleh, mother of
then prime minister Dr Amini, had asked Akbar
Mashdi to go to France with her to serve their
guests ice creams."
Akbar Mashdi Malayeri lived more than 90 years
and he died from renal failure at the age of 92.
Pakistan and Iraqi newspapers published his
death. A Pakistani diplomat wrote a column to
pay tribute to Akbar Mashdi. Akbar Mashdi never
married to have a child because he was very fond
of his career. Today, he is not living to see
his efforts are forgotten about. He is not among
the people to witness mechanical ice creams.
Akbar Mashdi's high quality ice creams cost 3
rials per kilo put now each kilogram of ice
cream costs 18,000 rials.
|